We design into most homes, here in Wichita,  a basement.   And local codes require that if you have a basement,  you must have an emergency escape.  Basically,  these escapes come down to one of three options:  window wells,  view-outs,  and walk-outs.  And,  any house can be constructed having any of these three escape options.  Walk-out pits, (often call walk-out, walk-up)  are a cross between the view-outs and walk-outs.   People have liked the ability to not just to be able to  view out  the basement,  but to also walk out to the backyard swimming pool,  for example.  These pits offer a home owner the advantage of a walk-out with out setting the whole basement (and house) up 4′ of elevation.  Developer sometimes restrict this 4′ rise in elevation,  because a house set at a higher elevation can throw extra rain water onto a neighbors lot,  perhaps causing undo flooding.  So pits are used as an alternative so that homes sit low and home owner can still exit the basement.  But be warned.  Pits need a drain.  And pits tend to collect debris.   Clogged drains cause the pit to flood when Wichita has one of it’s 4″ rains that can happen unexpectedly.  I encourage either a view-out or a walk-out,  but not a walk-out pit.  It’s just another maintenance requirement I choose not to have.

Everyone has heard the expression, “want a divorce, then build a house”.  Confusion happens when people,  who try building a house,  do not take the time to get organized.  Here is a likely scenario:

You faithfully go to your house everyday, as you should,  while it is being constructed.  Things have gone well.  The house has now reached it’s final stages of framing and the rough-in electrical and mechanical people have started installing equipment.  The house is now “weathered” in and your attention is focusing on the finishes.   The trim has arrived.   You notice the trim is oak and you didn’t want oak.  You wanted your house to have white “painted” trim.  It has to be returned and credited while you and your “other” decide what sizes of trim are needed around the doors and windows and at the wall base.  In the mean-time, the tile for the foyer has arrived and you have decided it would be nice if a design were located in the floor.  Time will have to be spent creating a sketch that you like.  Your “other” has to like it also.  Meanwhile,  the fireplace has started and the stone looks great, but, you guessed it.  The gas fireplace was to have a wooden face.  The builder tells us that it wouldn’t be a problem to replace the stone,  but there are some wasted material.  And he doesn’t feel like he should have to pay for that material since it was a special item and was not included in his base price.  Plus,  the change will include a “change order”.  Just to fill out the form,  this builder charges $50.  MEANWHILE,  the painters have to be called and placed on hold because of the delays.   And it goes on………..  Changes will cost you time and money,  and cause stress.

The specifications are organization.  Everything hinges on organization.  Without your specs, it will be a nightmare.

Your builder, if he is experienced, should have his own specifications (specs.) that you should review and edit.  Or, create your own.   Go from wall to wall in each room.  Each room is hollow, except for the kitchen and bathrooms, so this should be easy.   I give specs. out to all of my clients the first day they arrive.  The specs need to be completed and turned into the builder TOGETHER with the house plans. Bids that you receive with out your specs.,  are not accurate.

If you completed a set of specs. and had given it to your builder containing photos of your fireplace in it,  there would be no conversation as to who was going to pay for the wasted material.

The client comes into my office and we get acquainted. They begin by telling me how large their family is, what some of their needs are, and they provide photographs and articles from magazines showing how the new home design is to look. Photographs are a great way for the builder and draftsman alike to visualise these features.

And then, my first question. HOW LARGE OF A HOUSE DO YOU WANT ME TO DRAW?   The answer is a number.   It’s the square footage of a house that I am looking for.  Often the client will blurt out the square footage.   And then I ask them how they arrived at that number.   How do they know they can afford that large of a house?   I do not mean to embarrass the client.  Just trying to get more information.  It is much better to discover how large the house is to be now, rather than later.

It is a big question and everything rides on the answer.  It’s very important.  I discover that they have pulled a number out of the air and they really don’t know if they can afford this size of house.  So I tell the client “Ok, first do this”.   Contact a builder and set up an appointment to meet.  Tell the builder of your intentions to have a home built.  Then describe your house to him.  Will it have a porch?  Two story? Three bedrooms?  Three car garage?   And then ask the builder to estimate, based on the AMOUNT OF MONEY that you want to spent on the home,  how large should it be?  Make sure you tell the builder that you won’t hold him accountable for his answer.  That you just want an idea of the cost.

Bring his answer back and we will design your house based on that answer.  After the first draft of the house plan has been completed,  return it to the same builder and show him the design.  Ask him to review our draft and tell us if the money is right.  At this point,  the builder ought to be more accurate in his estimate.  But, it might not hurt to have a second builder review the same design and give his opinion,  money-wise.

If there is any question to the size and it’s cost, we’ll reduce your square footage.

You’d think that doors would be a no brainer, but I still visit with my clients about them. First of all, doors are called out in their size by feet and inches.  A door that measures 36″ across the width is referred to as a 3′-0″ (pronounced three-oh).  Most doors in a house are 80″ in height and would be referred to 6′-8″ (pronounced 6-eight). However, since most doors are all the same height, the height reference is usually omitted and used only if the door is an unusual height. So your front door to your new home would be called out as a “three-oh”, omitting the six-eight.  There are some doors that are 7′-8″ tall, but for some reason they are referred to as “eight-oh” doors in the industry. (I have no idea where this practice began.)

Front doors are usuall “three-oh”.  Bedrooms usually have “two-six” doors.  Bathroom usually have “two-four” doors.  The smallest door that I use to draw homes with are the “two-oh” reserved for the toilet closets.  A pair of “one-six” doors create a 36″ opening which is often a nice design into a master bathroom. And finally, “two-eight” doors are usually reserved for utility entrances and the door leading into the garage from the house.

These size doors are guidelines.  Often clients ask for the “three-oh” door for handicap entrances into bedrooms or bathrooms.  This is the whole idea of having a custom-drawn residence, having it planned to your needs.

As far as describing the door-swing,  place your back to the hinges and if the door should swing to your right,  it is call a right-hand door.